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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-05-2014, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Angry battery drain ! going crazy

I have an 07- never had any issues until recently.
Used to be if I didnt drive my van for a week or so itd be dead but being a daily driver that really wasn't an issue.
Well now my battery is dead daily- sometimes multiples times a day.
Alternator is fine, battery has been replaced 3x in 4 months- so not a bad battery. Fuses fine- only draw coming off is a .05 for the memory fuse which shouldn't be an issue especially since the owners manual even mentions taking out that fuse if your going to let the car sit for a long period of time.
I've taken it to 5 garages and the dealer and cant get anywhere, Spent thousands on diagnostics for nothing. They fixed door locks and some other things per tsbs... they think im crazy when I mention the ipm's or the junction box issues.
Im at my wits end. My van does have 190k miles on it- its been wonderful to me for except this issue.
Any ideas? I still owe a ton of $ on it so getting rid of it Is not an issue,
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-05-2014, 09:08 AM
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You've spent $thousands$ on diagnostics? Five garages, and one dealer. And no luck? 190K on the clock? And it has been wonderful EXCEPT for this battery issue? Three (3) battery replacements in 4 months?

Some might suggest that you cut your losses, take the financial hit, and dump it for something more reliable. It is an option. Expensive option in this case, however, based on what you said above.

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-05-2014, 10:53 AM
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I nevah understood how people can charge customers for NOT fixing their cahs. You take the car into the dealership to solve a problem. It's not fixed but they give you a bill anyway.

Not sure of your application but, in the old days when the piece the battery sat on was metal, there was a transfer of voltage through the (battery) case to the metal. I cut out a small rubber mat, same size as the battery's footprint and put it under the battery. Problem solved.

Just my 2 cents.
Good luck.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by libsx View Post
I have an 07- never had any issues until recently.
Used to be if I didnt drive my van for a week or so itd be dead but being a daily driver that really wasn't an issue.
Well now my battery is dead daily- sometimes multiples times a day.
Alternator is fine, battery has been replaced 3x in 4 months- so not a bad battery. Fuses fine- only draw coming off is a .05 for the memory fuse which shouldn't be an issue especially since the owners manual even mentions taking out that fuse if your going to let the car sit for a long period of time.
I've taken it to 5 garages and the dealer and cant get anywhere, Spent thousands on diagnostics for nothing. They fixed door locks and some other things per tsbs... they think im crazy when I mention the ipm's or the junction box issues.
Im at my wits end. My van does have 190k miles on it- its been wonderful to me for except this issue.
Any ideas? I still owe a ton of $ on it so getting rid of it Is not an issue,
07 what?

1: If you do trade the car off, "hide" a couple of copies of the service records indicating such in various places in the car so those records might be found later. Next owner and techs will thank you.
(If you put the copies in plain sight- Dealer selling off the car will throw them in the trash... WHY? it's sort of hard to sell off a car which has electrical problems. )

I would make several copies.. hide them in multiple places...

2: On the problem:

Was the car bought NEW or USED?
Salvage title?
Flood damaged?
Wrecked?
Repainted?
Car have a "Aftermarket" Stereo,"amps", etc
Aftermarket burglar alarm?
(Paint shops and Car stereo shops muck up a bunch of wiring.)

It sounds like a relay is not De-engerizing properly.
Could be on IPM board.

If I had to guess it's going to be one that carries alot of current. Most likely the contacts are pitted, this causing the relay to intermittently stick.

Look at the fuses, pull the fuses with the most amps, then work your way down.

I'd suggest carrying a meter with you /and or rig up some type of "meter" so that you can monitor battery current /draw at all times.

So far as the state of the battery /alternator output at most auto parts stores they have a device that has several leds that gives info on that. (Plugs in accessory-Hot all the time /cigarette lighter (Hot only when running) 12vdc port)

Another thought.... To get real time values... You can get a ELM327 Mini Bluetooth V1.5 OBD-II Auto Diagnostic Scanner Tool . which via using "Torque" and a smartphone lets you monitor things in realtime.


So far as the problem itself:
About the only thing you can do is to PULL the fuses one at a time.

Turn off or unplug everything you can.

Another approach is to remove ALL the fuses... insert one at a time while tracking current draw.


Other thoughts:
The alternator is mounted right below the front bank valve cover, when the valve cover leaks the oil goes right in the alternator.


Battery= You aren't using "used" batteries?


Last thoughts:
1: "Hyundai" sold very few "Entourages" it's a "rare" car to begin with, was sold for only 2 yrs. Due to such most Hyundai "techs" are NOT familiar with the car.

2: It being a "mini-van" hurts in the number of "techs" who have a "passion" in all things that are "Entourage". To most "techs" it's a refrigerator /washing machine on wheels.

3: 2007-2009 Hyundai Entourage is a 2nd generation rebadged 2006-2012 KIA SEDONA

Keep this in mind while searching, and also consider using a KIA dealership vs Hyundai for any out of warranty repairs as KIA techs see a heck of lot more "Sedona's" per month in for service than a Hyundai dealer will.


To conclude this post:

Don't be a hit and run type poster, make SURE to post DETAILED follow ups on what is needed to fix the car!

(Post info you'd like to run across right now)

.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by libsx View Post
I have an 07- never had any issues until recently.
Used to be if I didnt drive my van for a week or so itd be dead but being a daily driver that really wasn't an issue.
Well now my battery is dead daily- sometimes multiples times a day.
Alternator is fine, battery has been replaced 3x in 4 months- so not a bad battery. Fuses fine- only draw coming off is a .05 for the memory fuse which shouldn't be an issue especially since the owners manual even mentions taking out that fuse if your going to let the car sit for a long period of time.
I've taken it to 5 garages and the dealer and cant get anywhere, Spent thousands on diagnostics for nothing. They fixed door locks and some other things per tsbs... they think im crazy when I mention the ipm's or the junction box issues.
Im at my wits end. My van does have 190k miles on it- its been wonderful to me for except this issue.
Any ideas? I still owe a ton of $ on it so getting rid of it Is not an issue,

RE: Well now my battery is dead daily- sometimes multiples times a day.


Look closely / replace
Alternator, Starter.

Most likely the starter.

Have them checked at a place that rebuilds alternators/starters "on site"...


.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 07:06 PM
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Every time you deeply discharge a normal car start battery is shortens the life. After a while the battery is just scrap. Not saying that's the problem because thee is obviously something causing the power drain.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 07:33 PM
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Plug in GDS, go to ECU UPGRADE, select the icon for BCM I think it is, might be labeled I/P module, let GDS read the ROM, and see if update applicable,, looking fo rit to offer #152 I think it is..

Make sure battery fully charged when doing this update, advise them to use back up power (fully charged jump box) as headlights powered up during program.. Has to do with power down of IPM after key off.. might be worth a shot to see what happen... may reqiure reprogram of RKE to module when done.. been a good while, so have both RKE with van at time of service

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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-07-2014, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbr711 View Post
Plug in GDS, go to ECU UPGRADE, select the icon for BCM I think it is, might be labeled I/P module, let GDS read the ROM, and see if update applicable,, looking fo rit to offer #152 I think it is..

Make sure battery fully charged when doing this update, advise them to use back up power (fully charged jump box) as headlights powered up during program.. Has to do with power down of IPM after key off.. might be worth a shot to see what happen... may reqiure reprogram of RKE to module when done.. been a good while, so have both RKE with van at time of service
Good one sbr, forgot about that one. It's specifically for battery discharge, not sure how someone can spend THOUSANDS on a battery draw?
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 10:16 AM
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Here’s what I found, how I found it, how I fixed it, and lessons learned:
The battery drain was going to an aftermarket Homelink auto-dimming mirror with temperature and compass display. I had it installed six years ago in 2010 on our 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe. It didn’t cause any issues for several years, but during the last two years the parasitic battery drain just got worse and worse. If I didn’t drive the car every day, I could expect the battery to be dead on day two.

I found it by connecting my multimeter configured in the DC Amps mode between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery connector from the car after removing the connector from the battery forcing the drain to go through the meter. The positive side of battery can also be used, but it’s much safer to use the negative side in case any of my clips accidently came in contact with the metal frame of the car. Any parasite battery drain over 100 milliamps (0.1 amps) is unacceptable. Mine measured 425 milliamps of parasite drain. This car has a fuse panel under the hood and another inside by the drivers left leg. I confirmed the drain was going through the battery bus by pulling the 50 amp Batt fuse, which led me to the inside fuse panel. My wife watched the meter while I pulled each inside fuse one at a time and then replacing it. Finally I pulled the mirror power wire that was added on to the front of one of the fuses and she said that’s it. The parasite drain dropped from 425 to 20 milliamps.

I contacted the guy who installed the mirror but he had no clue what the Homelink memory keep alive drain should be. He said I could move it to a different fuse that’s not powered with the engine off, but I might lose my Homelink memory. Replacing the negative battery connector back to the battery and changing the multimeter to DC volts, I grabbed a pin from my wife’s sewing room to attach to the positive end of my meter with a clip lead. Each fuse has a very small open access to both sides of the fuse. I quickly found a 15 amp fuse that was not powered then moved the aftermarket fuse jumper from the powered fuse (engine off) to the unpowered fuse (engine off). Once the engine was running the mirror was now powered and the Homelink memory still hasn’t been affected.

The lesson I learned was that I could have save a lot of time by going right to the aftermarket installation. This was not the first time this has happened to me with an aftermarket installation. The first time was with a GPS car locator system on our other car that I finally had to pull its fuse. So regardless of who installed it, if you added an aftermarket device to your car, look there first. Hope this helps you.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-25-2017, 11:43 AM
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Had a similar issue about 5 years ago. Techs had 'no idea' . . . blah blah blah. Recommendation: Sit in your car in a quiet (dark) place and shut everything (stereo, A/C, Blowers, all lights - including the 'auto headlight feature) OFF. Walk around the vehicle and make sure the brake lights aren't stuck on. Then, sit there for about 15 mins and listen. It should be SILENT . . . I did this and apparently, my Stereo system with the multi-CD Changer decided to perform some type of diagnostic loop where I could hear the CD Changer cycling over and over and over . . . and it got caught up in some type of diagnostic loop (apparently, it thought a CD was stuck and kept trying to eject it. I found the fuses that went to the stereo and pulled them. Problem isolated. Dealership - who couldn't diagnose the problem - told me it wasn't covered. My self-purchased extended warranty covered it. I asked for a refund for the time they charged me to find NOTHING and 'we had a little talk' with the service manager. I don't go to that dealership any more.
Obviously, something is draining your battery that is electrical or electronic. They screwed you, my friend. A basic electrical tech should have checked your charging system (alternator) with the engine running (bet it was working fine) and then your battery (bet it was fine, too).
1 month ago, my car's battery was dead. Apparently, the 'stop lamp switch' had failed. This left the brake lights on all day. My son took the vehicle to school at 6am and the rear was parked towards the sun. 8pm return after a track meet. DEAD. Jumped the vehicle and couldn't get it to shift. The switch had failed to the 'brake pedal ON' position and then totally failed. It's part of the shifter cut-out. If the transmission doesn't think you have the brakes on, it won't let you shift. BOTH of these items can cause your battery to die. The second is much easier to diagnose.


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