Help Rear drum brake stuck on -s : | platizazvonok.ru
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-30-2012, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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EdGasket
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Help Rear drum brake stuck on

I am 200 miles from home and the rear drum brake is stuck on on one side. I have slackened the handbrake cable however on the side that has jammed, it seems stuck in the fully released position. Is there anything I can do to release the brake shoes? I can drive it a little but the wheel gets hot and smelly. I don't know if this would ease off with use or just damage something?

There was a little white button thing on the backplate which I tried pressing and it fell inside. Then I broke off the white collar surrounding the white button and had a poke around through the hole but to no avail.

Anyone have any ideas how I can free up the brake shoes?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-30-2012, 09:37 PM
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Jack it up and block the other wheels, make it secure. Take that wheel off. If the drum won't come off the hub, use a bigger hammer. Driving it with the brake on any distance has already ruined the drum so don't worry about it.


BE SAFE. Don't be under it and hammering away at the drum.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 08:13 AM
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That's right. All you can do it get a bigger hammer and wail.


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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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EdGasket
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Wrong answers chaps. No good smashing the drum to bits when I am stuck 200 miles from home with virtually no tools; also there is not much to hit, just a slight lip on the drum that is a bigger diameter than the backplate. Admitedly it does not seem possible to slacken the shoes by any external means which is a design oversight in my opinion.

Whatever has happened inside the drum, it yanked the cable back into the drum and it seems locked solid; I can't pull on the cable at all on th eside that has seized. This in turn effectively applied the brake to the other rear wheel. As I said, I freed up the other side by slackening the cable under the centre console. One wheel was however still locked.

In case anyone else experiences this, here is what I did:
1) Remove the wheel then the brake drum screw which provides a small orifice into the drum innards.
2) Squirt in washing up liquid through the screw hole to reduce friction
3) Replace wheel and drive around a bit to distribute washing up liquid
4) Use water to cool the drum as it gets hot due to the jammed on brake
5) Repeat steps 1 to 4 as necessary. I did this everytime the wheel nuts became too hot to touch and/or the wheel itself started getting hot. (had to keep stopping to check how hot things were getting)

Using the above process, I managed to nurse the car back the 200 miles over 7.5 hours. The wheel is not nearly so seized now as I guess some friction material has worn off but obviously I need to get in there and see what has happened and start replacing things as necessary.

Last edited by EdGasket; 09-03-2012 at 08:23 AM.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 03:39 PM
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What I'm assuming happened was the same that happened to me, mine wasn't quite as severe, but basically the parking brake/emergency brake cable has become rusted on the inside, and causes it to not be able to retract, so the brakes are constantly applied.

Luckily for me, mine weren't terrible, and I was able to drive it to slacken the brake a small amount. However the easiest method was always hitting it with a big hammer, which caused the cable to loosen slightly and then the brakes would re-constrict.

What you might try, is finding your ebrake cable, and hitting the metal joints anywhere in the cable with a hammer, try and free it up. If that doesn't work, you might want to consider cutting the cable and hoping the rust isn't where the cable meets the back plate (which for the record was where it was for me)

You'll most likely have to replace the cable anyway, runs a pretty penny too.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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EdGasket
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Usually rusted cables are the cause but not this time.
What happened was my son released the handbrake, reversed out of the driveway; went to move forward and found both rear wheels locked solid. As stated above, the nearside hub had somehow pulled the handbrake cable a long way inside and would not let go. I slackened the cable adjustment under the console which managed to relieve tension on the offside brake cable so that wheel became free.
Regarding the nearside, I do not believe it to be a cable problem because I can move the cable outers quite freely. If I get around to looking inside the hub I will post what I find. We may just keep the car for spares though as it is apparently only worth around 250 to sell and the parts are worth more than that to me as I also have the same model in the estate version.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 07:56 AM
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Just so you know, the white thing you tried pushing is an access port for adjusting the rear shoes. You remove that cap, insert an adjustment tool (pr screw driver) and turn the brake adjuster to either loosen or tighten the brakes.


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-11-2012, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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EdGasket
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Ah that would have been useful to know. I did poke around with a screwdriver through that hole but couldn't see or find anything and had to leave it as I didn't know if / what was supposed to be there.
Just had a good look at the photos in Haynes and can't see anything to adjust; the 'white thing' is at the bottom of the backplate whereas the self-adjuster is at the top. Maybe this back-off feature was removed on some models?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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EdGasket
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Got around to taking the drum off (using two M10 bolts which you wind into the drum face to push the drum off). Inside there I found the lining material from the trailing shoe had detached itself. The lining material was still in one piece but no longer attached to the shoe. I think this had caused the shoes to over-adjust out as there was no lining up the top end, and this in turn had caused the handbrake cable to get pulled right back; the arm that the cable attaches to was fully back and couldn't be moved when the drum was on because the shoes were already tight up against the drum. I have attached a pic of the brake shoes removed from the car with the springs and adjuster still attached for reference - notice no lining on the trailing shoe.
So it's some new shoes and springs and then it should be good to go again.
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File Type: jpg Wheres the brake lining.jpg (251.6 KB, 32 views)
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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EdGasket
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I changed the shoes on both sides today. Turns out that half the friction material had parted on the trailing shoe on the other side also so wouldn't have been long before that side caused the same problem. Rust between the shoe and the lining seems to be the problem so if your shoes are 12 years old or more maybe worth changing them.

That white button does absolutely nothing; no idea why it is there. There is nothing behind it and nothing to adjust.

To anyone changing their shoes, you don't need to remove the hub as Haynes states. You can replace the shoes and springs with the hub in place. The trick is to assemble the adjuster with it's spring and the top spring with the shoes off the car. Then pull the handbrake lever out just far enough to poke through the end of the handbrake cable (you'll have to have the cable slack and swivel the two shoes around a bit). Then manouver the two shoes onto the backplate and wheel cylinder. Fix the trailing shoe to the backplate. Fit the bottom spring and then fit the front shoe to the backplate.

I notice the handbrake cable is quite slack now however I don't want to tighten it up too much as I presume the slack will be taken up as the self adjusters wind round as the shoes bed in. Anyone know if that is the case and how long it takes for the adjusters to turn into their fully adjusted position? I pressed the footbrake a number of times but this did not seem to make any difference; maybe it needs to be driven as well to get the adjusters to adjust?
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