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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Can a stronger USB port be installed?

So I imagine other Sonata owners have noticed if you use Android auto, the USB port does not charge and play AA < android auto >at the same time which renders AA useless for long trips. Has anyone ever installed a stronger USB port to charge and play at the same time, if such a thing can be done? I have 2-year-old LG-G4 cellphone and my cellphone don't charge wirelessly so I need to figure a go around on the charging issue because I like my phone and don't want to have to buy one can charge off a wireless charger which would have been a good go around. ugh maybe Ill have to bite the bullet and get a new cell phone but I was wondering if anyone has try to install a stronger USB port

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 09:48 AM
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Cant adress Android but with the IPhone it easily charges while using Apple Car Play, music, text and map features and still charging
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 09:58 AM
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I have no problem charging my Galaxy S7 using the OEM fast charging USB cable. It does take a while to fully charge it though.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kocyk123 View Post
I have no problem charging my Galaxy S7 using the OEM fast charging USB cable. It does take a while to fully charge it though.
Yea its not just me, I google it, and it seems to be a problem with many people who use AA and its not just Hyundai cars. thanks for your input though.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 10:11 AM
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No problem. There was another thread about it and people use the following to solve the problem:

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Liam Rowe View Post
Yea its not just me, I google it, and it seems to be a problem with many people who use AA and its not just Hyundai cars. thanks for your input though.
You can the issue. Indeed, people are reporting it, and use some solutions, like a "Y" cable suggested by kocyk123, or a cable like .
However, I would be very cautious using a very high current chargers with it, - as they may damage the electronics (of the head unit or the phone), - see the explanation below.

However, I strongly suspect that your assessment of the problem might be incorrect: It is not that there is no charging from the USB port, rather, the current provided is low, compared to the consumption, and hence insufficient to charge the phone, or even to maintain the charge level.

I don't know if any of the newer Hyundai's have USB 3.0 ports, but my Sonata-2016 has what looks like a very standard USB 2.0 port.
The original specification for USB 2.0 was allowing no more than 500 mA (=0.5 A). [USB 3.0 allowed up to 900 mA (0.9 A)]
In 2010, "Battery Charging Specification" increased that limit to 1.5 A, but without concurrent data transmission.
(The newer USB 3.1 with Type-C also allows 1.5 A and 3.0 A.)
The reason for this limit is to prevent from damaging the electronics responsible for data transmission. I've seen a few devices that will not do charging at the same time as they operate, but those were not phones or tablets, rather a speaker and a ear-piece.

There are chargers that are providing up to 2.1A via USB ports, and some phones and tablets benefit from that higher charging rate. If you are using a Y-cable with such a charger, and are doing any communication via the other connector, I suspect, you might fry the electronics there.
I believe, the typical use for those cables is in the situation the "data-transmitting port" does not provide power at all or, possibly, when one connects it to two USB ports (0.5 A each).
I can see how some protection can be implemented by clearly separating "data" and "power" branches/connectors and not connecting "power" lines in the "data" connector. (That seems to be done in the cable I linked above on Amazon.) But even in that case, on the phone side you have all connected, and you might fry phone's electronics.

Some phones are capable of USB 3.0 (e.g. Samsung Galaxy S5). In that case, the electronics is by design must withstand up to 0.9 A while transmitting data. So, it is probably safe to connect it via the "discriminating" cable as discussed above to a charger that provides up to 1.0 A. (1.0 A is close enough to 0.9 A, so that risk is not that high.) But I would still be concerned about the head-unit's electronics if you are using a symmetric Y-cable.

Try it at your own risk!


I should point out that most phones, say, with a map app actively polling GPS and providing real-time navigation, usually consume more than 0.5 A. So, if your device is connected to a USB 2.0 port, charging and transmitting the data at the same time, its battery is effectively discharging (albeit slower compared to when not connected to the USB port at all). It varies with a phone, but with the phones that I observed, a typical current drawn while using GPS navigator with Google maps app (or Waze) is somewhere between 0.6 and 0.9 A. If you are running additional CPU-heavy apps at the same time (e.g. Video player, Pokemon Go, etc.), the current usage can get even higher and exceed 1A easily. (BTW, that leads to phone overheating.)
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 11:44 AM
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Some good suggestions here. Maybe try another cable unless you are using your oem cable already? I just use a cheap amazon cable for my LG Stylo V2, and I always use waze and stream google music and it charges....very slow charge, but it does charge.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kocyk123 View Post
No problem. There was another thread about it and people use the following to solve the problem:
thanks, I just bought that after reading your suggestion, sounds like that will work for me. thank you for the creative input.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HaOsLsE View Post
Some good suggestions here. Maybe try another cable unless you are using your oem cable already? I just use a cheap amazon cable for my LG Stylo V2, and I always use waze and stream google music and it charges....very slow charge, but it does charge.
hi and yes I have try my own cable from LG that came with my phone. I am going try the 2 sides female USB cable another member suggested, I didn't even think of that!

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-27-2017, 01:00 PM
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My first suggestion is to try a "better" cable because USB cables are not all created equally.

Get the app called AMPERE to test the battery rate(it does not tell you the charge rate and discharge rates separately, but combines them to tell you the overall change to battery). If, when plugged in the rate is low or negative(meaning discharging) then cable is suspect.

In USB the power connection and data transmission are separate and I think some modification could be done to the wiring leading to the USB port to give it a higher amperage without keeping it connected to the head unit so that there is no damage. find the wire that leads to the connector on the USB port that supplies the .5A power. Cut that wire. Get a 12V USB power adapter and you can either hard wire it in to the 12V socket wiring behind the dash or plug it in and run a usb wire behind the dash. Connect the power from the 12V adapter to the power wire leading to the USB port on the dash. You may also need to connect the neutral/ground wire from the usb port to the usb charger as well.

So, in the end you have data wires from USB port of car going straight to stereo. the power wires from the USB port on the car go to either a wired in USB wire you plug into a USB charger or you could direct wire one to the car wiring to keep it all behind the dash.

I attached a crude diagram of how I think you might be able to splice in a USB charger cable to the factory wiring. If you then plug the USB cable into a 2.1A charger, it might work.


I am no electrician but dabble in things so I do not know if this will work, but maybe
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