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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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AC troubleshooting assistance needed

Greetings all. I have a 2015 coupe with manual HVAC controls, not integrated into the touch screen. My AC quit working after my battery went out.

A few weeks ago my battery "expired", so I jump started the car for a few days until I could deal with it. I removed the battery and alternator and took them to be tested at the local auto parts shop. Alternator was fine, battery would drop dead as soon as a load was put on it, so I got a new optima yellow and put it in. It had been a few cool days due to Harvey floating in, so I did not immediately notice that my AC was not blowing cold.

The blower motor works fine, just not getting any cold air. The ECU knows that I've pushed the AC button, because the engine idles up. I have not checked the line pressure, but I believe the pressure is good because the engine idles up/down when I disconnect the pressure sensor. I've verified the AC fuse under the hood, as well as the 4 or 5 AC related fuses in the cab by the driver's knee.

I unhooked the compressor's electrical connector and put my multi-meter on it but could not get any kind of consistent or meaningful results. Not sure if that is because of the nature of the signaling to the internal variable valve on the compressor, or if I was not getting good contact, or if the ECU was feeding wacko signaling to the connector. Does anyone know how to test at the compressor electrical connector and what I should expect to see?

The only other test point I can see is the AC relay in the "EMS" box plugged into the under-hood fuse box. What I can tell from the Factory diagrams though, the box cannot be opened to access the relays to test them, someone please correct me if I'm wrong. They appear to run for about 50$ on ebay, so I might just get one and swap it in to see. It seems that the relays in the "EMS" box can be tested via the Hyundai propitiatory diagnostics GDS tool. Rather not shell out dealership diagnostics fees if I can avoid it.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 03:51 PM
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Can you hear the compressor engage when you push the A/C button? I'm guessing not based on what you said.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 04:08 PM
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Don't know that Hyundai has this issue, but several GMC vehicles would go whacko when the battery died and had to have the control head reset. Now that I think about it, my EGT went weird after the battery failed. In my case, the compressor would come on but would only blow out the windshield ducts. So I set the controls to that position, let it run a few minutes, then stopped the engine and restarted the car. After that, no issue. Can't point to a process or procedure, just tried it because I had seen a similar "hack" on another car with the same issue.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Greetings all. I have a 2015 coupe with manual HVAC controls, not integrated into the touch screen. My AC quit working after my battery went out.
OOPS, meant to say its a 2015 SEDAN.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Can you hear the compressor engage when you push the A/C button? I'm guessing not based on what you said.
I can hear/see the engine idle change when I push the button. But that happens even if the compressor electrical connector is disconnected. The compressor does not have a traditional clutch, it stays spinning all the time. Instead it uses an internal variable valve.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 06:11 PM
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2015 car. Are you over 60K miles? Original owner?

Refrigerate charge is only 12/12 warranty but A/C is 60K................ I think, unless Hyundai changed from 2013 to 2015.



You have impressive diagnostic skills but gauges are necessary also.

Last edited by grandpaswagon; 09-12-2017 at 06:15 PM.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by grandpaswagon View Post
2015 car. Are you over 60K miles? Original owner?

Refrigerate charge is only 12/12 warranty but A/C is 60K................ I think, unless Hyundai changed from 2013 to 2015.



You have impressive diagnostic skills but gauges are necessary also.
Thanks pal.


I am the original owner, but odmeter is at 68k unfortunately. I'm fairly confident that I have proper freon pressure, but I do intend to hook up a gauge and double check.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-13-2017, 01:00 PM
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I can hear/see the engine idle change when I push the button. But that happens even if the compressor electrical connector is disconnected. The compressor does not have a traditional clutch, it stays spinning all the time. Instead it uses an internal variable valve.
Your compressor does have a clutch if it has an internally controlled valve, it does not if it has an EXTERNALLY controlled valve. Manual control systems in these cars come with an internal control/clutch system. You should be able to hear a clutch engage. To confirm, feel free to read the details found here

Let us know the status of that, it's possible your AC system isn't engaging.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-13-2017, 01:43 PM
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Here's a link to trouble shooting the variable displacement pumps if that's what you have.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-13-2017, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CyprusCorner View Post
Your compressor does have a clutch if it has an internally controlled valve, it does not if it has an EXTERNALLY controlled valve. Manual control systems in these cars come with an internal control/clutch system. You should be able to hear a clutch engage. To confirm, feel free to read the details found here

Let us know the status of that, it's possible your AC system isn't engaging.
VIN lookup says I have 97001 compressor and control valve 97674. The parts diagram site indicates that the same compressor is used for both automatic air and manual air controls in this car. Does this look accurate?
www hyundaipartsdeal com parts-list 2015-hyundai-elantra-us-alabama-made air-conditioning-system-cooler-line html

I have a green/black 2 wire connector that hooks to 91633 on the compressor, and I've visually confirmed that the pigtail leads down the side of the compressor to the rear where the 97674 control valve is located.

The valve is internal, the controls are external. Parts diagram confirms there's no clutch on the pulley assembly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
Here's a link to trouble shooting the variable displacement pumps if that's what you have.
Looks like an Oscilloscope is necessary to get a meaningful reading on the green/black signal wires. I wonder if an oldskool ignition dwell gauge would do the trick, I have one of those but no Oscope on hand.
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