How to compress caliper piston to fit new pads? -s : | platizazvonok.ru
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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How to compress caliper piston to fit new pads?

Well...I could have sworn I did this on this car without a hitch and did it on my Azera twice without runing into this problem.

Does anyone know to compress the front caliper piston so I can put the new brake pads in?

Right now, it's protruding out all the way and I have no clue how to retract it. It will obviously not fit the new thicker pads.

I went on youtube but all the tricks on there didn't really help me.

Someone told me to take out some fluid from the master cylinder to relieve the pressure and pour back in what I took out.

I am guessing that's the black cap by the brake booster? By the vacuum hose ?

I opened that and the cap doesn't open up the actual cap which looks like a reddish upside down hat.

Anyways, before I ruin something, does anyone have any ideas on how to compress this thing? I can't even get the original pads on so I am pretty much stuck.

Thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 08:02 PM
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Open the bleeder and then use a pair of chanellocks to squeeze it. It makes the piston so much easier to push out. Added bonus, all the **** in your brake system ends up at the pistons and if you don't open your bleeders, you just push all that debris back up into the lines and master.

Also, your little "red hat", are you talking about the screen? It has a red frame and a thin mesh screen. That's to keep you from contaminating your brake fluid with dirt and other crap. You can remove it, but you don't need to. Don't stick anything in your brake fluid unless all your bleeders are seized.

After you've opened your bleeders and pushed your pistons back, you can just gravity bleed your brakes for a bit. No need to do the two man bleeding method unless you are replacing brake lines or a caliper. To gravity bleed, just open the bleeders and let them drip for a minute or two. Don't let your reservoir run empty.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Silly question but the bleeder is the one on the caliper end? There is a bolt but the brake fluid line ....is that it? Thanksfor the quick reply
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 08:37 PM
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If you have a C-clamp,that works best to compress the piston.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 08:39 PM
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hmr1979: It will look similar to this. This is not the exact caliper that is on your vehicle, but it represents what one looks like and the general location of the bleeder screw.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 08:54 PM
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Okierich has it. You probably have a rubber cap over yours. 10mm wrench or socket, make sure it's 6 point, 12 point will possibly strip it. Also, tighten the bleeder ever so slightly before you try to loosen it. That will break up the rust and keep you from snapping it off. Bleeders are very easy to brake if there is a lot of corrosion or they haven't been moved in a long time. Tap your wrench or ratchet instead of pulling on it, as the impact will also help break up that corrosion.

A c-clamp is nice if your bleeders are closed, but with a bleeder open, channellocks will push the piston back in about 5 seconds versus the 2 minutes you'd spend cranking the clamp.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNV33 View Post
but with a bleeder open, channellocks will push the piston back in about 5 seconds versus the 2 minutes you'd spend cranking the clamp.
Right on! Been there, done that!

And this will open a can of worms: Ever so slightly clamp (crimp) that dedicated brake hose to prevent any old fluid from traveling upwards in the hose, eventually mixing with that which is in the reservoir. It happens.

Okay, guys, let me have it. I'm braced for the rebuttals!

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 09:30 PM
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Only issue with clamping the lines is you can deform or even break the steel linings inside the hose. I only clamp a line if I'm trying to isolate a brake issue. It's traditionally a no-no, but if you do decide to crimp a line, make sure you don't crimp the same place again.

If you compress the piston at the rate it wants to go (as in, once it starts moving, don't push harder, just keep consistent pressure) you should get most fluid out the bleeder as the fluid should follow the path of least resistance.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 09:41 PM
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I was just referring to the rubber hose running to the back of the caliper. And a gentle crimp is sufficient. But I can understand the "mental red lights and sirens" going off when that post was read. I use a small set of long-nosed Vise-Grips. I had a Mercedes/BMW/Volvo Master Tech show me this trick. Amazing, the crud and dark crap coming out of those piston cylinders.

But you point is valid about taking your time and the path of least resistance. Valid, indeed. I've done that, too.

Caveat, if anyone has never done this, they could rupture that rubber hose and be in one **** of a mess. Only for those with some mechanical seniority under their belts.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 10:16 PM
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No I was refering to the same brake hose you're talking about. It's a braided steel hose, covered in rubber. You can damagethe steel reinforcement which can lead to a collapsed hose or breakdown of the reinforcement, causing a ruptured hose. No one in my shop does this unless we really need to isolate a brake issue and never crimp the same place twice. It's probably difficult to cause serious damage, but not a chance I want to take.

Brake hoses are cheap and if you're okay that risk it's okay. Just not when it's on company time and money in my eyes.
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