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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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No Start After Radiator Replacement

Hello, I just replaced the radiator in my 01 Santa Fe, 2.7. When I test drove it the engine was running like crap. I pulled out my scanner and code came up with PO335. A few days later I tried to start it and it just kept cranking. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and it still would not start. Then I replaced the camshaft position sensor and still no luck. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 05:15 PM
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Have you checked the power supply and ground at both sensors?
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeso_81 View Post
Hello, I just replaced the radiator in my 01 Santa Fe, 2.7. When I test drove it the engine was running like crap. I pulled out my scanner and code came up with PO335. A few days later I tried to start it and it just kept cranking. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and it still would not start. Then I replaced the camshaft position sensor and still no luck. Any help would be appreciated.
If the wires were bad enough(bare) they could have shorted and blown a fuse.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-11-2017, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Power and ground are good. The 10 amp ECU fuse was blown. I replaced it but it still won't start. The crankshaft position wires were exposed. Wonder if that blew the fuse? Maybe the ECU got fried?
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-11-2017, 07:54 PM
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Any water or coolant get on the motor?

"Imagine a world in which we are all enlightened by objective truths rather than offended by them." Neil deGrasse Tyson
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-11-2017, 08:08 PM
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Wait, you tested the powers and grounds to the sensors?
They tested good? Then you found the 10 amp ECU fuse was blown?
Was that the order you went through?
The crank shaft position wires were exposed?
Did you see this when you changed they sensor?

ECU is usually well protected against this sort of thing.
Not saying it can't fry the ECU.
Just that there may still be a chance it is good.
Let's test ....

Start with checking for spark at the spark plugs
See if you get any injector pulse
If no to both then it may be the sensor that was fried.
Remove sensor and and put AC voltmeter on it and wave a piece of iron or steel near it
The Hall effect device should give an indication of .1 to .7 volts ac.
Ask AUTOSPARK for a more definitive test.

If (lets say) there is only no spark then trace back to coils.
See if there is power and ground going to coils.
Is there a firing signal coming from the ECU?
That could indicate to you if the ECU may be fried?

Lets hope it is something simple.
Maybe another fuse is blown??
Anyway, good luck
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by avisitor View Post
Remove sensor and and put AC voltmeter on it and wave a piece of iron or steel near it
The Hall effect device should give an indication of .1 to .7 volts ac.
You've gotten your sensor technologies mixed up. A Hall sensor is a DC voltage switching device. It's output will either be ground or open circuit, depending on whether there is a ferrous metal in close proximity to the face of the sensor or not.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 07:24 AM
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You've gotten your sensor technologies mixed up. A Hall sensor is a DC voltage switching device. It's output will either be ground or open circuit, depending on whether there is a ferrous metal in close proximity to the face of the sensor or not.
Thanks, I forget sometimes.
It has been a long time since I had to do anything with electronics.
But, I seem to remember that waving the sensor near the engine would give a reading on the AC scale??

Just looked it up.
According to google ...
"To check the sensor output, turn the DVOM to AC Volts. Rotate the wheel or whatever speed you are measuring. Place the meter leads across the sensor and measure the AC voltage output. Typically, if the shaft is rotated at about one turn every 2 seconds the output should be around .7 to 1.0 Volts AC."
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 08:44 AM
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It's a DC pulse that will show up as a 1/2 cycle AC square wave. The faster the pulse the higher the AC voltage signal.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-12-2017, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avisitor View Post
Just looked it up.
According to google ...
"To check the sensor output, turn the DVOM to AC Volts. Rotate the wheel or whatever speed you are measuring. Place the meter leads across the sensor and measure the AC voltage output. Typically, if the shaft is rotated at about one turn every 2 seconds the output should be around .7 to 1.0 Volts AC."
That's how you test a VR (Variable Reluctance) sensor, not a Hall Effect.

The Hall sensors used on Hyundai engines (and most other engines) don't output a voltage. They switch the the signal terminal to ground.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Raspberry
The faster the pulse the higher the AC voltage signal.
Yes, if your talking about a VR sensor, that's correct. But Hall Effect sensors don't work like that.
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